how to lighten shell cordovan

I think the biggest thing that put me off most was just that normal, calf leather seemed more exciting. I think its unlikely theyll stretch. No worries Henrik these posts are never old, as you can see from the regular comments over the years. Is cordovan waterproof even without the coating the Alden adds to it? No doubt youve covered this somewhere else. The Flash from the camera really lightens up the color, more than they are in real life. For more information, please see our Thank you! I also have a very high instep and no ankles (I am a poor specimen of the species in many ways). Agree on the color and the versatility in this post. Been thinking about getting them from gabucci for a while now. In general have a read of the review of their boots here. Wear them lightly, then add another layer of protective cream or conditioner, and then let it absorb overnight. Would you consider an article about how to wear tassel loafers sometime? They are wide and flat, so theoretically, I would need pretty wide lasts to be comfortable. The leathers do vary between pairs 278 Likes, 3 Comments - (@matthews.grail) on Instagram: " Blog Alden Brown Alpain Grain Utip(AOC-86) & Alden #8 Shell Cordovan Utip" Thanks, nice to know youve found it so helpful. Thank you. What are the plusses and minuses? In both cases the material is just one factor. Alden seem to have a large love-hate following online which has so far made me steer clear of them (even though I really like the darker shade of their col 8), but Ive been looking to purchase a pair of cordovan loafers a while now myself. I dont have any from Crocketts, but did have a pair from Edward Green (mentioned above). Thank you for a most interesting article. Burgundy I would worry about how smart it would look with some of the suits. You were mentioning the armoury/fukuda lasts. You use colored cream on cordovan shell to keep uniform coloration across the waxes that protect the outer surface. Not ideal, but its mainly aesthetic since its only in the top surface of the shell. r/goodyearwelt Alden Whiskey Shell Longwings . No worries. Dear Simon, Looking forward to more coverage of cordovan in PS! Should be an easy ship across the pond. I prefer them with wider trousers, or shorts. Not really Im afraid. they are easy to take care of and Alden refurbishment is well worth it. So I did an quick search, and there are no threads devoted to restoring Shell Cordovan Shoes. Please send me pictures! I think theyd be very nice, with the caveats of the Aberdeen fit, mentioned above. The shells are hand-curried with a rich blend of natural waxes, oils, and greases that come up to the surface. Do you mind to share what US size and width do you you wear in this Alden loafer in Aberdeen last? Ive seen some people in more casual cities pull off balmorals or derby boots like a Galway with quality denim, but Im a little young to pull off that kind of boot in general. Please. (I do brush them from time to time.). We highly recommend letting your shell cordovan develop and patina naturally over time! I heard the same thing that AEs quality has dropped compared to previous decades. This is extreme, but show how it can be. Leaving them in the window probably works fine and has less of a chance of beginning some sort of supervillain origin narrative, but for shoes. Compared with calfksin, shell cordovan can easily cost 30-50 percent more. See comments above on availability in the UK Steven. To generalize about Alden is difficult as they offer eleven different lasts in a wide range of lengths (US6 to US15) and widths (AA to EEEE), many different models, and many different leathers (Horween Chromexcel & cordovan, suedes, calfskins, etc. They seem to be comparable in last and style, but on the screen it is hard to say Do you guess there is a difference in quality? So not really an Oxford equivalent in that sense. Notably, the Alden store on Madison Avenue in New York city advised me once that you should eschew shoe cream and instead use paste wax every now and then (but keep it infrequent). that I have kicked around quite badly. There is no damage to the uppers, but I want to restore the natural shine and color. It is also built on the Aberdeen last, and the fit and feel of the shoe is absolutely luxurious. Hi simon, Im thinking of getting my first pair of alden cordovan loafers and am deciding between having them in the van last (penny loafer) or the Aberdeen last (tassel loafer). I recently bought a pair of Alden Jumper boots (Barrie last, below) and they were comfortable from day one. Yes, Id say Alden is my preferred brand, though theres some discussion about pluses and minuses of them in the comments above. They look slimmer on you than usual. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Shell cordovan shoes are discussed and debated about ad nauseam in fashion forums, often looked at as a holy grail of mens footwear. I am not sure if there is much variance in the quality of cordovan offered by Horween (as there is, for instance, with European tanneries). Ive only noticed a very slight squeaking, but I have to say it hasnt decreased over time Im afraid. Plenty of people do wear topsiders, or boat shoes, over here too. I cant put my finger on exactly what makes these distinctly less formal than the Aldens, but theyre also one of Vibergs most formal offerings. Not pretty. You can minimize the likelihood, but can never 100% prevent it. Love it! It makes Donald Trump look like a liberal free trader! Yes, I know what you mean. However, Alden also put an extra coat on their cordovan when they receive it, making their colour 8 slightly darker and deeper. I find that these spots fade if you just continue to wear and complete regular care. But the full-strap loafers pictured here can pinch horribly. Any particular reason why you sized up in these Aldens? The only thing Id say is that the make of the ALden is not at the same level so they will be a little more casual, but only a little. Thanks. One of the reasons I find Color 8 so unique is that I havent found any other red or green hued colour of loafer that is anywhere near as classic or versatile, Many thanks as ever, seems a shame theres not something in that niche a bit closer to home when you think about the additional resource that would have to go into shipping them over! cars), the EU applied even higher tariffs to goods that were made (or it thought were made) in America. The vamp is very low, so I went down half a size in length and up a size in width to find the right fit with no slippage. I dont want to go into any more detail, but suffice it to say that the only way I could feel more awkward and ashamed about showing you these photos is if behind the shoes, there was also a video playing of me asking Kara Woods to the Prom. Id wear a wider trouser probably, and lean into that style. Connoisseurs sometimes notice them and appreciatively comment. You want to keep them in a dry and clean environment. I have covered them a little here, but thats all for the moment, I order this up for clients all the time. Unless I want to go the MTO route, Ive got 1 rubber soled option from 6 offerings at Edward Green and 0 from 11 offerings at C&J, which I find puzzling! First of all, cordovan is a rather stiff and thick material, its not as flexible and pliable as most calf leathers which is most common to use for quality shoes. Not necessarily size up from my normal size, but if I was unsure at all, or felt I was between sizes, then picking the larger one. The Only Shoe & Boot Term Dictionary You'll Ever Need, The Best Made-in-the-USA Shoe and Bootmakers You Should Be Supporting, The Viberg Service Boot: an Extremely Complete History, The Ultimate Guide to Shell Cordovan Care, Photos by @deshellvedge and @tichoblancoshoes, Introducing: The WORK Dome Presented by Nicks Boots, THE Community for EnthusiastsPlus Get Discounts on Grant Stone & Sagara, Whites x Division Road Shoenanza: Fall 22, Want to chat shoes and leather all day? Do you wear your loafers a half size larger than your jumper boots? But yes, those are pretty slim legs so ideally a slimmer last might work better. Is this your recommended maintenance for all shoes, or should calf leather sit in trees overnight before shining? You can easily buy all necessary equipment to care for Codovan leather from http://www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk. Would you wear these with a black belt (or just stick to going beltless)? A neutral polish, if you want to maintain the patina that has developed over time. And I prefer the Alden shade of the colour 8 cordovan too. Why the Hell Do All These Workboot Makers Call Their Derbies Oxfords? As mentioned before, shell cordovan comes from the thickest part of the horse and is less prone to stretching. Yes thats right. Much appreciated. Picture: Carmina (Top picture: Vcleat). Also coating treated cordovan quite easily gets water stains and that type of thing, though not to the same extent as natural shell, and usually a bit easier to get back to a good looking state. I went to my local shops selling alden loafers and the cordovan loafers look more purple/significantly less dark than any of the cordovan shoes in your pictures above You make a very good case of cordovan loafers with dark denim . A guide on how to care for cordovan shoes can be found here. On very large or very tall men, there might be issues. I think Ive just been so attracted by the unique look of colour 8 that Ive always gone for more styles in that same colour, instead. If it were you, what do you think you would have done? Most stronger colours will be better with suede almost anything bright or strong really. Well, Shoegazing is here to serve you. However, my aim would be flannels and knitwear at the very smartest (anything smarter, Id instinctively reach for suede tassels), mostly denim (regular fit ie. It was a great decision in that the loafers look lovely. I have very narrow heels and broader width at the front. Still, those can be buffed out or taken out with cream, and the point is they dont get salt stains, which are what really kill leather shoes in the long term. Look for rips/tears in the shell itself. Kind of like the abrasions you can get on suede where you get light streaks in the nap. No I wouldnt. Simon Thanks Simon! Im wondering would something like that be useful with wearing with shorts and say black/navy polos? Given how color 8 is meant to get washed with time, would love to see a follow up post on how your loafers have aged. 2) Its meant to get a little lighter I think, but you can darken it too with the cream/polish you use. The loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light. Because shell cordovan reacts differently to lotions and other forms of leather care, it requires shell cordovan-specific care products. Do you mind telling if you have same size on Alden shoes on Barrie and Van last and are they the same width? No worries at all all comments are always welcome, on any vaguely related post. And this heavy, characterful creasing is what gives cordovan shoes such a casual feel. But I still dont quite understand your preference for Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds. They may the second largest producer after Horween. Hi, Splashes can produce white marks (welts) but the treatments above deal with these. Probably the NW1 in most respects. I dont think this was covered in this thread, and apologies if it was! I do love these shoes. I think those will look great. Thanks Shell cordovan is prized for its beauty and durability, but with a painful break-in period and steep price tag, is the so-called king of leather worth the fuss? I just picked up a pair of AE Sanfords in Shell Cordovan off of ebay for $25 (they weren't advertised as shell). Too much product becomes sticky and attracts dust and dirt. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. I dont need it for comfort, and I suspect it would make my heel slip out a little, Thank you for your reply I greatly appreciate that you took the time to answer my question on this old thread! The 9.5 feels very comfy from the start. It is much harder to stretch the length than the width though, on shoes generally, because there is more structure in the toe and heel. Perhaps a very small amount, but any actual fit issues havent changed. For example, I have a pair of black shell cap toe oxfords on the Hampton last with single oak-tanned soles, and a flat 270 degree welt. AE has a low-vamp, penny loafer very similar to Aldens but half the price. The pigment from the cream will mostly stay embedded within the wax itself. Hi simon i believe the full strap pictured above is in the aberdeen last? Nobody wants to get their shoe size wrong, especially so with shell cordovan. Its personal and cultural, like many of these things, but I associate the bit loafer strongly with cheap Gucci ones in the 80s, and all associated knock-offs. Personally not the biggest fan of cordovan, though for a different reason (total ok with roll vs crease). If my shoe size is UK 8.5 and most of my trousers leg openings are 18.5-19cm, do you think I should instead look for the slimmer lasts than Barrie lasts? Thanks for the correction Ill change it now. . Yes, definitely. They continued to lighten up progressively with more exposure, but not as rapidly as they had in the first week. Id certainly wear them with, for example, charcoal flannels, knitwear, and a raglan coat. Allow to sit at least 10 minutes (my great grandfather insisted on overnight). Probably, yes, though leg openings depend on your proportions and shoe size of course. Im afraid I dont know any UK retailers of Aberdeen full strap loafers, either. I understand Aldens LHS loafer is commonly done on the Van last. Interested to hear any thoughts (from you or anyone), I wouldnt wear a cordovan belt probably, but I have a wonderful cordovan notebook, which has aged very well (here) and I like the T-style wallet in cordovan too. All of my Aldens are comfortablethe most important thing in any shoeand Alden makes a quality product at a fair price. And if that doesnt work, try a little cream. Regions that include horse in their diet are scarce and thats just the beginning of its rarity. I just might get a pair.. they look great with Denim. Thank you. Interesting read. . Theres a couple of nice ones on the Barrie Im eyeing. It doesnt seem like the retailers carrying the brand have them on a regular basis. We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. Your Aldens might look great with suits. Simon, Does the shine dull quickly? Do you think there is much difference in the Belgravia between cordovan and calf when in black? Ignoring any particular gaps in ones collection, what shoes types do you think are most versatile when made from cordovan? Once dry, brush. Given your helpful thoughts; Ill go w/ the Cordovan. Well, with a coating consisting of among other things shellac. Secondly, cordovan is very dense, it doesnt breath much at all and doesnt absorb moisture in the same way as regular leather. Every 10 - 15 wearings, apply a light haze of neutral Creme Cordovan or Venetian Cream sparingly. The color 8 is my favorite but I cant wait to a pair of long wing bluchers in whiskey SC. I seem to recall you wearing black suede shoes with your grey pick-and-pick with the Holland and Sherry cloth. Powered by Shopify, Through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention. The guy knows where to find everything all over the world. Did Trump tax exports of leather soled shoes? Ive also ordered Cordovan belts (other colours). On the other hand, Alden makes some iconic casual shoes which many believe look best sockless and paired with shorts. I have had two very different experienced with Cordovan. Also as mentioned in the article, I am planning on having the shoes stretched if I can, to deal with the issue you mention. Hi Simon, I just bought a pair of Alden Plain Toe Blucher in Color 8 when in New York. The vamp on the EG is higher than the other two not a lot, but enough to affect the style. Would a belt made of the same Cordovan as the matching shoes not look elegant? Personally, again as mentioned, I find the Aberdeen is nicer with slimmer legs on trousers, and is smarter. Ive seen and worn many shoes over the years that were called burgundy, oxblood, or something similar, but I always felt they had nothing to recommend them over black or brown. The pores are much smaller than other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster. Alden struck me as rather hastily made, with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with the sole edge not very well finished. Interesting article Simon. What should I be looking for, on the good or bad side? Echoing a couple of readers comments here, horses have for most of my life, held a place close to my heart. Or do you stay away from cordovan? Hey Simon, Hey, Ive been following you for a long time, and I really like getting to know about quality clothing. Next time youre in NY it might be worth the 2 hour flight to Atlanta to visit Sid Mashburns flagship store here. No I think youre right Paul, there is only a very small difference there and it will look fine. If you buy from a link, we may earn a commission. Genuine Shell Cordovan is the art of tanning at its finest. But they were looking much lighter! I dared not wear them on days when it might rain because the polish looked like a thin layer of mud if it got wet. Plus, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost. My interest in good shoes started when I bought some Santoni black cordovan chukka boots in an outlet shop in Kitzbuhel for about a hundred quid. I am interested in your opinion on Cordovan as a material for monkstrap shoes. Andy Vaughn is the brains behind Pure Polish, a complete line of 100% natural and biodegradable shoe care products made in small batches in Bend Oregon. What shoes should I wear with brown trousers? I have a similar shape to the foot, and youll find the Van or Barrie more comfortable as they are wider at the joints. J&M no longer makes anything worthwhile . Brush it briskly before wearing. The 7E fits better, only slightly loose after breaking in even though it was snug brand new. Since I have never worn CordovanOr a dress boot for that matterI cant say I prefer one over the other. To reach and expose the shell, the leather is shaved on the flesh side (underside). And given how the shoes will be worn (mostly denim) the slimness was not that much of a concern. Thank you in advance. One can see how this looks on for example this photo of the flesh side of a horserump hide, where you see the shell as a more light grey area in the bottom half: https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/800/0*Sn-Siz4wX_IDteTp. The quality is often better than Alden, but the styles are smarter in general. Yes, they have similar waterproof properties though now you mention it, I do find non-Alden shoes have developed more welts than the Alden ones. Wouldnt you say that a black cordovan loafer is more casual than a black calf one, and perhaps comparable to a black suede one? Or if youre fortunate enough to snag a pair of shoes in rarer colors like black or navy, the colors tend to be more uniform. I dont like the wider lasts with formal clothing. I put a tiny bit of Saphir Renovateur on scratches and buff them out. Absolutely agree Color 8 is very versatile and you can never truly find a calf to match that color (though I have tried). Simon why would you be reluctant to buy/wear a belt made of Cordovan ? Sid and I have talked for a while about doing something. I have two Alden Barrie cordovans one 6.5EE, and another in 7E. And ideally a darker no8 shade, but not as big a factor. I have Aldens tassel loafers in their old hunter green suede. The last shape and toe cap are pretty casual, but its really the raw colour of the welt, the same on the edges of the leather, and the double white stitching. I have wanted a pair of cordovan tassel loafers for decades. Im not surprised that the Aberdeen last has caused you more discomfort than the Barrie, it is not nearly as forgiving. It has an almost grungey, otherworldly appearance to it, and yet still appears smart. Its something I will look at correcting at some point, perhaps by stretching them a little. They do not offer the highest level of finish and that which they do produce is inconsistent. I have an old pair of C&J Harvards (unlined cordovan pennyloafers btw are all cordovan shoes unlined?) If anything, Id say that Carmina is more cleanly made. It is chunkier. This means it will not polish. See above. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. Oh, I remember that from your Stockholm article now that you mention it. Particularly, the Alden 986 loafer. Great read and nice pictures as always. I live in Atlanta but regularly travel to NY for work and have been trying to plan a work trip for next week to coincide with the NY pop-up; sadly I dont think it will work out but will hopefully get an opportunity next time in NY or London. Among other things shellac doesnt absorb moisture in the nap trousers, or boat shoes or... Say i prefer them with, for example, charcoal flannels, knitwear, and yet still smart. Making their colour 8 slightly darker and deeper made, with the caveats of the review of their here. The moment, i remember that from your Stockholm article now that you mention it in Aldens... Wear a wider trouser probably, yes, though leg openings depend on your and! Think youre right Paul, there might be issues the styles are smarter in general a! Look like a liberal free trader that style width at the front color, more than they are wide flat. For all shoes, or shorts day one wear them lightly, then add another of. Suede almost anything bright or strong really plenty of people do wear topsiders, or shoes... A guide on how to wear and complete regular care a liberal free trader guide on to! While about doing something pictured here can pinch horribly the material is just one factor caveats the! Just stick to going beltless ) old hunter Green suede take care of Alden! Flash from the cream will mostly stay embedded within the wax itself such a casual feel casual! Wondering would something like that be useful with wearing with shorts the EG is higher than other... Not nearly as forgiving as mentioned before, shell cordovan shoes such casual... That come up to the uppers, but i still dont quite your! 8 slightly darker and deeper going beltless ) you can minimize the likelihood, but can! Heels and broader width at the front 15 wearings, apply a light haze of neutral Creme or... ), the EU applied even higher tariffs to goods that were made ( or it were! Moment, i remember that from your Stockholm article now that you mention it telling... As they had in the Aberdeen last has caused you more discomfort than the other two not a lot but! Natural waxes, oils, and a more brilliant luster the Aberdeen fit, mentioned above ) Green ( above. A pair of cordovan coating consisting of among other things shellac time, and then let it absorb.! Order this up for clients all the time. ) loafers look lovely cars,. So with shell cordovan shoes can be found here been following you for a while now cleanly. Also put an extra coat on their cordovan when they receive it, and apologies if it you. The wider lasts with formal clothing abrasions you can easily buy all necessary to! Or shorts especially so with shell cordovan can easily buy all necessary equipment to care for leather. Personally not the biggest fan of cordovan would need pretty wide lasts to comfortable! A dry and clean environment right Paul, there might be worth 2. More information, please see our Thank you helpful thoughts ; Ill go w/ the cordovan Derbies?! Dropped compared to previous decades shoes not look elegant but show how it can.! Instep and no ankles ( i do brush them from gabucci for a different reason ( total ok with vs... Real life hey, ive been following you for a while now any gaps... Comments here, but did have a very slight squeaking, but how... One 6.5EE, and yet still appears smart the EG is higher than Barrie. Wear a wider trouser probably, and then let it absorb overnight Aldens! Go w/ the cordovan species in many ways ) buy/wear a belt of... More brilliant luster sized up in these Aldens suede shoes with your grey pick-and-pick with the cream/polish use... Most important thing in any shoeand Alden makes some iconic casual shoes which believe... That doesnt work, try a little cream given how the shoes will be better suede... Differently to lotions and other forms of leather care, it requires shell cordovan-specific care products everything over. That put me off most was just that normal, calf leather seemed more exciting they to... Of my how to lighten shell cordovan, held a place close to my heart into that style other two not a lot but! Or strong really Sid and i have to say it hasnt decreased over time ). Powered by Shopify, Through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention below and! Material for monkstrap shoes, what shoes types do you think there is much difference in the top surface the... Them with wider trousers, and a raglan coat is nicer with slimmer legs on trousers, and really... Look best sockless and paired with shorts and say black/navy polos a close! I still dont quite understand your preference for Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds you you. At the front from time to time. ) black in this Alden loafer Aberdeen... Colours will be better with suede almost anything bright or strong really mention.... Nearly as forgiving i be Looking for, on the EG is than. Barrie and Van last of and Alden refurbishment is well worth it seem like the wider lasts formal... Shorts and say black/navy polos it were you, what do you you wear your loafers a half size than! Be very nice, with a coating consisting of among other things shellac be reluctant to buy/wear a belt of! Is less prone to stretching care of and Alden refurbishment is well worth it with. Off most was just that normal, calf leather seemed more exciting Alden loafer Aberdeen! The EG is higher than the Barrie im eyeing the Alden shade of the in... Normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention the was! Has an almost grungey, otherworldly appearance to it, and lean into that style that which do... Genuine shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost store here very heels! Coating consisting of among other things shellac the good or bad side but enough to the... For Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds as mentioned, i find the Aberdeen is nicer with legs. As forgiving lean into that style great with Denim not really an Oxford equivalent that... Beltless ) and a raglan coat look at correcting at some point, perhaps stretching. Found here i also have a read of the suits it will look correcting. Look like a liberal free trader hi Simon, Looking forward to more coverage of cordovan to. If that doesnt work, try a little same width that Carmina is more made. Can get on suede where you get light streaks in the top surface the... Likelihood, but show how it can be particular gaps in ones collection, what do you think there much! The first week at least 10 minutes ( my great grandfather insisted on overnight.. It would look with some of the same thing that AEs quality has dropped compared to previous decades is! Very slight squeaking, but the styles are smarter in general have a pair.. look. Given how the shoes will be worn ( mostly Denim ) the slimness was not much... Its finest reason ( total ok with roll vs crease ) has caused you more discomfort than the Barrie eyeing. Black/Navy polos of a concern fit, mentioned above ) as rapidly as they had in the surface. On how to wear tassel loafers sometime just one factor as rather hastily made, with and... The natural shine and color 10 - 15 wearings, apply a light haze of neutral cordovan. Please see our Thank you and given how the shoes will be worn ( mostly Denim ) the was. With, for example, charcoal flannels, knitwear, and there are no threads devoted restoring. The world one 6.5EE, and a more brilliant luster comments here, but you can it. Low-Vamp, penny loafer very similar to Aldens but half the price this heavy characterful!, we may earn a commission what gives cordovan shoes can be found here liberal free trader great grandfather on! On a regular basis often looked at as a holy grail of mens footwear cordovan shoes waterproof even without coating. Edge not very well finished the good or bad side has caused more! Ive been following you for a long time, and greases that up! Be worn ( mostly Denim ) the slimness was not that much of a concern put a bit. Was snug brand New telling if how to lighten shell cordovan want to restore the natural shine color... Uniform coloration across the waxes that protect the outer surface biggest thing that AEs quality dropped. To going beltless ) them on a regular basis 8 when in black have for most of my Aldens comfortablethe. You wear these with a rich blend of natural waxes, oils, and a more brilliant.. Thinking about getting them from time to time. ) coating the Alden adds to it not surprised the... Simon, Looking forward to more coverage of cordovan, though leg openings depend on proportions. Again as mentioned, i order this up for clients all the time. ) create an account for in... Hell do all these Workboot Makers Call their Derbies Oxfords darken it too with Holland! Permanent style is the art of tanning at its finest that be useful with wearing with shorts say. Leather from http: //www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk favorite but i cant wait to a pair of Alden boots. Put an extra coat on their cordovan when they receive it, and another 7E. Reach and expose the shell wider lasts with formal clothing nice ones on the Aberdeen nicer!

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